Sunday, October 16, 2011

“‘Flying Witch’ Crashes on Cliff”


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“‘Flying Witch’ Crashes on Cliff”, screamed the front page of The Chronicle, one of Ghana’s most influential newspapers, on 8 September 2011.  As the paper tells it, an elderly woman was found naked in the middle of a military compound, and when questioned said she had been flying with a number of fellow witches “when she came crashing to the ground.” The soldiers who found her apparently “laid her by the roadside” and reported the matter to the police, who promptly refused to have anything to do with the matter. Eventually Red Cross personnel provided her with basic care, and took her to two police stations, a psychiatric hospital and a clinic, all of which refused to provide any assistance to a weak and bruised woman in her eighties, presumably because they wanted nothing to do with a ‘witch’.  Weeks later we find out, not surprisingly, that she is just a much-loved grandmother suffering from Alzheimer’s who had simply lost her way.

I’d been wanting to shoot a piece on women accused of witchcraft for some time after hearing about Ghana’s ‘witch camps’ and then seeing Yaba Badoe’s documentary, Witches of Gambaga. An assignment for the UK's The Herald magazine finally allowed me to do just that.

The belief in witchcraft is widespread and deeply, deeply rooted in Ghana, and the notion that a person has been cursed or bewitched is used to explain all manner of unfortunate occurrences. One could possibly explain this away by saying that Ghana remains a place where many people are not well-enough educated  to understand the causes of illnesses and disease, and so misfortunes are explained in terms of good versus evil and the workings of the supernatural. But even amongst the elite – well-off, well-travelled people with university educations and urbane, modern lives – even amongst people who understand how someone fell ill and died, witchcraft might be cited as the reason why.

Tales abound – flying witches, people who can turn into animals, fireflies that are really witches hunting at night, the man who was cursed and started shitting flies, the woman who was seen here and in Amsterdam at the same time – all told with a passionate seriousness and a fervent insistence that “It’s true! I’m telling you, it really happened!”

If it were simply that people believed, the matter could just be dismissed a quaint anachronism. But the expression of that belief is anything but quaint, with accused witches frequently being treated in a manner reminiscent of medieval Europe in the days of the Malleus Maleficarum, that infamous 15th century inquisitor’s handbook for the identification, gruesome torture and extermination of ‘witches’.

Consider the death last year of 72 year-old Ama Hemmah, who was found inside a neighbour’s home, accused of being a witch, and set ablaze by a mob that included a Christian pastor.

Consider Zenabu Bogi, whose fingers were placed in the jaws of an animal trap to force her to admit to her supposed evildoings.

Consider Asana Mabian, whose brother-in-law fell sick, and then dreamed that she was chasing him. He accused her of having cursed him, and with the assistance of other family members held her down and dripped molten plastic all over her bare breasts and pregnant belly to extract a confession.  All the while her screaming children looked on.

Consider the absurdity of the test that a woman must pass to determine her ‘guilt’ or ‘innocence’: A chicken’s throat is cut, and the bird is thrown to the ground flailing in its death throes. If it comes to rest on its front or its side, the woman is a witch; if it dies on its back she may go free.

And note that I referred to the test that a woman must pass – almost all of those accused of witchcraft are women, with elderly widows disproportionately represented. In the country’s north in particular, where ‘witch camps’ – part sanctuary, part prison – exist, witchcraft cannot be separated from the patriarchal societal constructs that are in many ways disadvantageous to women. As women cannot own property, once widowed they often have nowhere to go – the house was their husband’s, and if they are no longer seen as useful or cannot be married off to their husband’s brother they are often unwanted. It appears that an accusation of witchcraft is sometimes a convenient way to get rid them. Jealousy between wives in a polygamous marriage is another common cause of spurious accusations, often with dire consequences for the accused.

Women who manage to acquire property or some measure of independence are also sometimes a target: For example, in the course of shooting these photographs I was told of a woman who managed to acquire a small herd of cattle, in itself no mean feat. As she could not own property, and feared she would have no recourse if a man took her cattle, she entrusted the herd to her brother. After the herd had grown, she decided she wanted to sell some of her cattle, and went to retrieve them from her brother. He decided he wanted to keep the cows, and so accused her of being a witch.

I have even heard it said, by a man regarded by many to be an ‘authority’ on the matter, that both men and women can be witches, but while men may use their powers for good or evil, women may only do evil.

In addition to having the surreal experience of being invited into a hut one morning, hearing noises in the darkness, and turning to find a woman giving birth on the floor, this was a mind-bending and heart-rending story to shoot.  Yet people criticise me sometimes for putting pictures like these into the world, accusing me of portraying Ghana as backward at a time when the country is struggling to take her place amongst modern, middle-income nations. Well, as far as I’m concerned, torturing little old ladies is backward, and I’m not afraid to say so.

Monday, May 16, 2011

The Other Accra

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Accra, like most African cities, is a place of extremes. If you can afford it, you can live in a gated community of faux-European mansions with manicured lawns; you can shop in an upmarket air-conditioned supermarket and commute to a shiny high-rise in your Porsche Cayenne. At the other end of the scale are squatters in shacks, the ubiquitous stinking open gutters, people hustling to get by. There is poverty here, and having worked in rough neighbourhoods, in ‘zongos’, in far-flung villages I thought I had seen it. But I was unprepared for Old Fadama.

Perched on the banks of the Korle Lagoon (which has the ignominious distinction of being one of the most polluted water bodies on planet Earth), Old Fadama does not appear on any map. Yet it is home to some 80,000 Ghanaians, most of whom hail from the woefully underdeveloped north of the country, having migrated south in search of work or to escape past famine and ethnic violence.

The stereotypical perception of Old Fadama is of a hotbed of crime, violence, drugs and prostitution – hence the biblical moniker ‘Sodom and Gomorrah’ that is often seen in the press. The name is consistent, too, with the common attitude that the residents are outsiders, backward ‘strangers’ to be looked down upon. The reality, of course, is that yes, they have their troubles with crime and violence, as does any place where people live in grinding poverty. But far outweighing that is the sense of a community of ordinary people who have the same dreams and desires as any of us; who tend their small businesses, who seek to provide for their families, who manage to emerge pristine from the windowless one-room shack they share with 11 other people and set off for work.

As I understand it, the Government’s position is that the settlement is in a (largely destroyed) ecologically sensitive, flood-prone area and that the residents must be relocated. However, whenever successive governments have raised the spectre of relocation there has been an outcry from residents, who feel that plans for their resettlement have not been adequately thought through, and that there is insufficient clarity on how the relocation of those 80,000 people would be executed or funded. Fearful of losing the votes of the northern half of the country, the Government backs down. However, as the Government considers the community to be an illegal settlement, it will not legitimise it with the provision of services and infrastructure. And so the result is a kind of political inertia within which 80,000 people continue to live in the almost total absence of the most basic amenities.

I had the opportunity to see Old Fadama for myself while shooting an assignment on life inside Accra’s slums. A selection of the resulting images will be exhibited at the Alliance Française d’Accra alongside Sarah Preston’s photographic work on the resilience of urban women. Open from the middle of this week through to the end of May, I hope the show will provide a glimpse of an Accra that many of us choose not to see.


Exhibition Opening: 6:30pm, Wednesday 18 May 2011 (Admission is free)
Exhibition Dates: 18th – 31st May 2011
Venue: Alliance Française d’Accra, Liberation Link, Airport Residential Area, Accra, Ghana. (Behind Opeibea House.)
Enquiries: +233 30 277 3134/ com@afaccra.com

In addition, there will be a panel discussion at 4:00pm on Wednesday 18 May 2011 featuring women from the communities pictured.

Thursday, March 24, 2011

How to Load a Truck

(Click image to view larger.)
  1. When loading your truck, try to cram as much as possible into a single load. This will demonstrate your efficiency and will save time and petrol. Spare no thought for the load-carrying capacity of the vehicle, its size or its longevity. Bonus points: Use a very small truck to carry a very big load.
  2. Try to use boxes of as many different shapes and sizes as possible, as this turns the otherwise menial and mundane task of loading the truck into a fun and interesting challenge.  If you wish, you can try and fit the boxes together as best you can. Bonus points: Do not try to fit the boxes together in a logical way – simply lash them together any way you can, as randomly-fitted boxes add to the likelihood that one will fall off and strike a pedestrian or cyclist, for which you will score extra points.
  3. Use as little rope as possible. Don’t even think about a cargo net. This demonstrates your daring, as it shows that you do not care if anything falls off your truck and injures anyone who might be rash enough to want to use the road at a time when you are ferrying your load. It will also mean that you have spare rope to fix your truck when it breaks down because you have overloaded it. Bonus points: Place some items in such a manner that they are not secured by anything at all. If you really want to demonstrate your panache, do this on a rough road in a crowded place.
  4. Try to arrange your load so that it is unbalanced and leans to one side of the truck. This shows that you can think outside the square, and will also demonstrate what a good driver you are if you are able to drive your unbalanced vehicle in a straight line. Bonus points: Do this at speed on a windy day.
  5. Do not concern yourself with the long line of traffic that will build up behind you as you travel to your destination.  Most people like to spend time in traffic on a hot day, and many will gladly remain behind you by choice, so that they can admire your stylish load. Bonus points: Break down.

Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Feminists of Afrika on International Women’s Day

Aïssatou Cissé, Senegal. (Click image to visit photo gallery.)

I had the memorable experience late last year of spending a week in the company of 200 amazing women at a beachside resort hotel in Dakar, Senegal. No, it’s not what you think – I was there on behalf of the African Women’s Development Fund to document the 2010 African Feminist Forum, a gathering of iconic personalities in the Feminist movement from across the continent, brought together in solidarity to share their knowledge and experiences.

Many of the forum sessions and the women who led and participated in them were thought-provoking, inspiring and touching in equal measure, and there were many times when I wished I were there as a participant rather than a photographer, especially as a man in a context that, for better or worse, often excludes those of my gender.

One of my tasks during this incredibly full-on week was to shoot a series of portraits of inspiring African feminists for an upcoming book to be published by African Women’s Development Fund. I figure today, International Women’s Day, is a pretty good day to give you a sneak preview!

Sunday, February 13, 2011

New Website

Check out my new website.

As long-time readers will have noticed as they arrived at this post, there have been a few changes around here - my new website is up! The new site offers a simpler and cleaner browsing experience, and clients will be pleased to know that I can now offer a number of more streamlined online proofing and image delivery options. Online ordering will be back up and running shortly. Stay tuned...

Sunday, January 9, 2011

Ghana - Mental Health

(Click image to visit photo gallery.)
In Ghana, people living with mental illness and epilepsy* have it pretty tough.

To my knowledge, in this country of 24 million people, there are only four public psychiatrists. The three psychiatric institutions in the country are overcrowded, woefully underfunded, and they are all located in the south of the country, meaning that for many people there is simply no access to appropriate treatment. Psychotropic medications are theoretically available free from the government, but people I met in the course of shooting these images spoke of inconsistencies and shortages in supplies, and cited the unavailability of modern, more effective drugs. In some ways it's a moot point, as many sufferers have no access to a qualified practitioner to make a diagnosis and write a prescription. Civil Society Organisations such as BasicNeeds, with whom these images were shot, are making valiant efforts to fill the breach through outreach work, but they can only do so much given the scale of the problem.

To compound the situation, mental illness and epilepsy in Ghana are cloaked in misconceptions, misinformation, and deep-rooted beliefs in witchcraft, sorcery and demonic possession. As a result, clinical treatment may not be the first recourse even if it is available – the problem may simply not be seen in those terms.

Between lack of access to treatment and lack of awareness of its possibilities, those who are unwell often find themselves subjected to incredibly inhumane treatment at the hands of people who either believe they are doing the right thing, or who simply don’t know any better.

* Epilepsy, of course, is a neurological disorder not a mental illness. However, because it is widely misunderstood here, those afflicted by it share many of the problems faced by sufferers of mental illness.

Update: Several people have contacted me to ask how they can help. If you would like to make a difference, contact:

Peter Yaro, Country Programme Manager
BasicNeeds Ghana
peter.yaro@basicneeds.org
Tel: +233 37 202 3566
Mob: +233 24 457 2733

You can also make a donation online at http://www.basicneeds.org/donate/  If you do make a donation online, send Peter Yaro an email and let him know.

Friday, January 7, 2011

The Warrior

(Click image to visit photo gallery.)
A ceremonial warrior at the Odwira Festival at Dunkwa-on-Offin in the Central Region of Ghana. Held in the latter part of the year, the festival commemorates the day the golden stool at the heart of the Denkyira Kingdom is believed to have descended from the heavens.

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